Laboratory and Field Observations of the Joint Distribution of Shoaling Wave Heights and Periods

Abstract

The evolution of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods that arises during shoaling is investigated using laboratory and field data. The laboratory data were obtained from experiments conducted on a 1:20 planar beach slope, while the field data were obtained from a nearly planar beach with a nearshore slope of approximately 1:25. The data are compared to the theoretical distribution proposed by Longuet-Higgins. Both the laboratory and field data indicate that for unbroken waves with v < 0.35 the shapes of the observed and predicted distributions are in relatively good agreement.