Predicting Shoaling Wave Heights

Abstract

Data obtained from laboratory experiments conducted on two (1:40 and 1:20) planar beach slopes in a random wave flume were used to examine the accuracy and robustness of the method of wave height prediction proposed by Hughes and Miller (1987). In particular, the data were used to examine the sensitivity of the method to bottom slope, wave steepness (i.e., peak enhancement), and relative depth (d/L). The results indicate that the accuracy of the method is related to both spectral saturation and bottom slope. Overall, the accuracy of the predictions is good (i.e., relative error less than 10%) provided d/L > ~0.2; accuracy deteriorates further in shallower water.