Breaker Types and Wave Reflection Coefficient: Laboratory Relationships

Abstract

Re-analyses of the existing reflection data obtained from regular wave experiments on a smooth, impermeable, uniformly inclined beach lead to the following empirical relation:

K_r = 0.84[1 - exp(- 12.8 tan β] tan h (0.11ξ₀^2.4)

where K_r is the wave reflection coefficient, β is the beach slope angle, and ξ₀ is the surf similarity parameter. The breaker type is linked with this equation through the value of ξ₀. The reflection coefficient increases as the breaker type changes from spilling to collapsing through plunging, and it becomes constant for surging breakers. It is found that reflection coefficients of collapsing and surging breakers are strongly affected by the beach slope.