Re-examination of Breaker-Type Classification on Uniformly Inclined Laboratory Beaches

Authors

  • Sei-ichi Okazaki
  • Tsuguo Sunamura

Keywords:

Surf similarity parameter, breaker, wave-tank experiment

Abstract

Results of 150 runs of a wave-flume experiment using sloping bottoms with various gradients ranging from 1/20 to 1/0.5 indicated that the demarcation of breaker types can be described by the equation, Ho/Lo = N (tan β)n, where Ho/Lo is the deep-water wave steepness, β is the slope angle, and N and n are coefficients: N = 2.4 and n = 1.8 are given for the boundary between spilling and plunging breakers: N = 0.19 and n = 2.5 for plunging-collapsing boundary; and N = 0.074 and n = 2.4 for collapsing-surging boundary. The surf similarity parameter, ξ0 was found to represent these three boundaries: they were given by ξ0 = 0.5, 2.5, and 3.7, respectively.

 

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Published

1991-04-05

Issue

Vol. 7 No. 2 (1991): Journal of Coastal Research

Section

Technical Communications

License

Authorization for personal use is granted by the Coastal Education and Research Foundation [CERF]. By submitting a manuscript, the authors agree that the copyright for their article is transferred to the publisher if the article is accepted for publication. Assignment of copyright is not required, however, from authors who work for organizations which do not permit such assignment, The copyright covers the exclusive rights to reprduce and distribute the article, inclduing reprints, photographic reproductions, microform, or any other reproductions of a similar nature, and translations.